Taiwan's yoga scene

Taiwan’s yoga scene

Yoga is ‘big’ in the east – so popular in fact, that I’ve decided to investigate and find out what the fuss is all about…

Perhaps you are wondering why Taiwan? Surely it’s not one of the biggest tourist destinations of East Asia? Squeezed between Mainland China and Japan, the island’s cultural influences reflect this geographic position and a mix of both the modern and more traditional worlds. Taiwan is a rather small island but nevertheless attracts a notable amount of foreigners, expatriates, businessmen, tourists from all over the world, and as a result the cultural scene is diverse and vibrant. The capital, Taipei, is an exciting, colourful and incredibly lively place to be, and the fact that yoga has experienced a huge boom over the last few years reflects a general trend in modern East Asian cities – following suit from Shanghai, Hong Kong and Singapore. In terms of the ‘yoga scene’, these cities all seem to be on a similar level: sleek, modern and somewhat corporate looking studios, make up the core of what yoga has to offer.

Taipei’s yoga village…

So Yoga’s big in the Far East. So big that plush, modern studios have been popping up all over cities like Taipei. Shanghai has Y+ (amongst others of course), Singapore and Hong Kong have Pure and Taiwan has just as many. Yoga is only just a fairly recent trend in the oriental world but has really kicked off in big modern cities, in the same way as gyms, fitness studios and health spas became trendy in the West throughout the 80s and 90s. Most people in Taiwan are very aware of yoga, and the health benefits it offers. Perhaps it is part of the Chinese mentality to be so conscious about health and they enthusiastically follow new trends in a very efficient manner: as soon as yoga began to kick off in Taiwan, TV channels suddenly offered an array of (poorly presented) yoga fitness programmes, sport shops started stocking up on the latest Prana yoga wear, mats, props and everything a ‘serious’ yogi would need to practice.

Yoga has been in Taiwan for a number of years, but it is only after Space launched a few years ago that things took a whole new dimension. Pure, a more fitness oriented studio – owned by an American Chinese pop singer, Coco Lee- followed suit around the same time.

Space and Pure Yoga are two of the leading modern yoga studios in Taipei and also have branches in other Eastern metropoles. Following the latest American fashion, they offer a huge range of classes from Vinyasa Flow to Hatha, ‘Hot’, Mysore style and meditation. It is mostly about Yoga Lifestyle – luxury, top end yoga for high earners and trendy health aware Metropolitans.

However, Space also hosts regular workshops from some of the world’s leading teachers – Richard Freeman is a regular and Sarah Powers will be leading an intensive workshop at the end of November 2009. Space Yoga definitely has the space, the view (panoramic mountain landscape, yet set in the midst of the cool East district), the upmarket, clean studios, shiny bathrooms. It offers the whole ‘package’ – a beautifully peaceful zen lifestyle that anyone who practices yoga should dream of – in theory at least. It’s undeniable that the centre is incredibly designed, stylish, calm and comfortable: two changing rooms, 26 luxurious spa showers, fresh high tech towels, 10 fully equipped practice rooms, which are cleaned after each session (an army of cleaners awaits at the end of each session, ready to dust off each speck of sweat and dirt, ensuring the studio is impeccably clean for a fresh batch of students), a shop offering the latest lulu lemon gear, yoga mats and books, plus an array of staff to inform you, direct you, book you in for the next class and of course charge you for the privilege of being there. As their website interestingly states – “SPACE offers the convenience of a gym, and the comfort of a spa, but focuses on being singularly devoted to the practice and enjoyment of yoga.” Personally, I find this a little confusing.

Of course, access to all this beauty and well being doesn’t come cheap. As I was taken through a detailed tour of the centre by a lovely English speaking sales lady (and of course also a yoga devotee), I soon found out the real cost of being part of this lifestyle. Drop in classes are a whopping 900 Taiwan Dollars (about 20 GBP), but most students here are on more affordable yearly membership packages – proper gym style.

I find these types of studios a little daunting, and although the experience is pleasurable, visually appealing, this is not what yoga means to me. So I took a short walk down the road to explore some other options.
Less than 5 minutes away, in the still stylish and expensive Dongxia Fuxing district, is John’s Yoga Living’, an independent yoga centre, which offers perhaps a fraction of the classes from other upmarket studios, but in a much warmer, relaxed and friendlier space. It’s nevertheless very clean, smart and stylish, but the size (2 medium yoga rooms) makes it far less daunting and far more homely.
They also run nutrition and Ayurvedic cooking workshops and have a homely kitchen offering simple and yet delicious breakfasts and lunches. The owner, John, has studied Ayurveda and Yoga in India, and his friendly, down to earth manner, gives the place a good vibe – not often are owners that approachable.
The other great thing in comparison with the other main studios in Taipei is that Yoga Living does not go with the whole gym membership style passes. Classes are reasonably priced at about 10 pounds and become cheaper if you buy tickets by bulk (which can also be shared with friends – a great way to share the yogic love).
They teach far fewer classes than their larger ‘rivals’, but focus on simple, straight forward yoga styles – Astanga, Hatha, Meditation, Flow and Yin. The approach is uncomplicated and honest- or at least less image oriented. www.johnsyogaliving.com

Other Schools

But although all these studios follow a similar pattern of being a ‘western’ import of some kind (all the owners for instance, are not Taiwanese ‘natives’), there is nevertheless another side of yoga in Taiwan, which is far more home-grown. One of the largest studios of this kind is CSJ Yoga, founded in 1976. It’s so local in fact that they haven’t even bothered to translate their website in English! They offer Yoga Alliance registered teacher training courses as well as a wide variety of classes in studios all over the island. http://www.csjyoga.com.tw/index.php

Chun Lee, a Taiwanese yoga practitioner, notes: “ Taiwan also has a number of esoteric, self taught yogis too. One older teacher for instance, has followed his own path for years and practices his own style of fairly ‘hardcore’ looking yoga in a remote temple. Here’s him in action: http://ishare.rediff.com/video/Health-&-Fitness/Taiwan-Yoga/108063”
“This just shows that it’s only the recent import of yoga in Taiwan that is modelled according to Western styles. Like everywhere else, trends are inevitable, but the seed has always been here.”

Future of yoga in Taiwan – just another fad or there to stay?

Yoga as a fashion is by no means a bad thing – trends often settle down and seep into cultures and psyches in the most unexpected ways, creating foundations for other developments- but it does show to what extent the Chinese world just loves anything fashionable, ‘western’ and healthy. It’s all about the experience, style and external appearance – in most places anyway. Chinese friends have often warned me of an innate mentality of fast-track health and fitness – it’s something they are proud of – do little and get great results. So if yoga doesn’t achieve those results efficiently enough, then what next?

Exercising, the Chinese way….

Chinese culture seems to be obsessed with food, consumption and over-snacking, so how do they keep themselves on the whole (fairly) healthy? A recent visit led me to observe how they integrate activity and movement into their daily routines, but in some very curious ways indeed...

The Chinese have always been passionate about healthy living, natural remedies (as well as pseudo natural ones), and many superfoods such as goji berries, shitake mushrooms, soya beans, seaweed and so on, have long been used in the far east before becoming fashionable in the West. It’s no wonder then that they are so conscious about maintaining their bodies healthy, and yet they are proud of their overwhelming culinary heritage – obsessively so too. Everything evolves around food – from social gatherings (the greeting here is ‘hello, have you eaten’) to cultural visits -no temple, shrine, ancient town or historical area comes without an array of places to eat, and each town has its own local ‘speciality’ – usually just another version of a small flaky pastry made with a different filling (red bean, sesame, lotus seeds, pineapple) or something similar. Again, any festivity is often just another occasion to buy, make, give and be given beautifully packaged boxes of cakes, fruits, sweets and the like.

This just highlights the fact that the Chinese – and here, the Taiwanese- are simply food lovers, perfecting themselves in the art of buying, giving and eating. Over and over again, throughout the day, weeks, months and years. So how do they still stay so seemingly healthy? And why is their way of exercising so amusing to western eyes like mine?

The most noticeable feature is the unashamed use of public spaces to stretch and move. From outdoor movement and dance groups, to simple routine exercises, most of my observations point to a lack of shyness in doing silly things in public – or at least things which we in the West would deem as silly. How often would you see groups of people walking around a 100 sq ft public square 20 times, just to keep fit? Or shaking their arms out while power walking with slippers on? The funny thing is that all this is taken very seriously. Speed walking, limb shaking and tension releasing is definitely not a laughing matter out there. It’s just normal. So normal in fact that I would be nearly tempted to join in - given another few weeks, I may just blend in and give it a go.

There is also some irony to all this – as much as many people in Taiwan do make the effort to go out, take their bikes, put on their shiny running shoes and spend time outdoors, it seems a lot do so only half heartedly. 9 out of 10 cyclists just ‘cruise’ along at a ridiculously slow pace (see picture above), and most ‘joggers’ really only just power walk. I’m not an athlete, but I can certainly make a judgement on exercising efficiently.

Trend following is another example of interesting sporting habits: for instance, new cyclists feel the urge to buy all the ‘right’ gear and apparel from top to toe – lycra, gloves, glasses and speed counter included! They may certainly look the part, but yet they only use their bike on weekends, and most likely for a short and easy ride to the next noodle stall. Mind you, it’s still better than ordering a takeaway from the comfort of one’s sofa!

On the whole, there is one good lesson to be learnt - swapping evening television and customary drinking/socialising for evening walks and early nights is only beneficial.

But these days, mind/body activities such as Taichi and Qigong, are still mostly practiced by the older generation. At dawn and dusk, public parks and spaces fill up with –mostly retired- men and women doing their daily breathing, walking, or taichi, in the view of maintaining a healthy mind and body balance.

All in all, there is something quite appealing about the concept of trying to at least keep some kind of healthy balance between a passion for consumption and an aim for a long life. The Chinese are indeed efficient in all matters in life: from making money, and delighting their senses to making up for any superfluous indulgences.

Lost in translation?

London, Taipei, Goa....
3 cities, 3 cultures, 3 languages and alphabets. That's quite a radical change in just one month.

So I have moved on yet again, clocked up the air miles (or rather my carbon debt - that makes a lot of trees to plant) and caught up with a lot of friends on the way. It's good to move but I like to be settled too - something which I will be now for the next 4 months. My Indian visa runs out early March, hence the need the move yet again... By that time I think I may just be craving for clean feet, cooler weather, sweat free living and quiet nights.
Or maybe not - I might just end up lost in the masses, rather than lost in translation... we'll see how it goes! :-)

Swiftly Moving on...

So there's been a gap here. One long blank space in the posts, which simply means that everyone close enough knows pretty much what I have been up to by now. Winter in the sun, from Goa to Taipei, learning, working, stretching, teaching and sweating... Summer in an ironically cooler climate, but which I nevertheless call 'home'. I've been busy working again, tree planting, press releasing, teaching, socialising a little and practicing Astanga. I've also learnt more about the joys of inner city cycling, road rage, weird encounters and some really pleasant rides. I've rediscovered urban green spaces, moved into a greener south London and picked blackberries and cabbage leaves at my friend Sue's allotment.
I have also become even more aware about things I really care for and which matter to me the most - as well as all the little things in life that we so easily take for granted. Luck has been on my side recently, and I am grateful, but now it is time to move on once again. I like to keep some movement and fluidity - and perhaps later move into stillness and be settled once more.
So now it's Taiwan for starters and Goa as a main course. One month here and four there. I'm saving dessert for spring - the highlight of this winter's menu- a sweet Taiwan finale with sprinkles of green tea and candy love.

yoga for runners

Here's an article I just wrote about yoga and running for Yoga Abode...

Yoga and running


Yoga and running can be hugely beneficial as combined activities. Yoga, if practised safely, may help alleviate some strains caused by high impact sports such as running and possibly also enhance performance.

Practised side-by-side, yoga and running have a double effect. Whether one chooses one discipline over the other as their main focus, both practices feed off each other – mentally and physically.

On a physical level, yoga opens the body, releasing muscle tensions and stresses, whereas on a more subtle level, it helps relax the mind and attain a deeper level of consciousness, thus enabling you to go further.

Running on the other hand, is a great way of warming up the body but also ‘switching off’ – through physical exercise, tensions can be released and the mind eventually quietens.

Laura Denham-Jones, marathon runner and yoga teacher, highlights the fact that "like most aerobic activities, running involves sustained, repetitive motion using the large mobiliser muscles in a limited range of motion.

Yoga can help strengthen deep postural muscles in the core and back for better running form. At the same time the postures release tension and lactic acid from overworked areas by moving in all dimensions through twists, forwards bends and side bends."


Here are some key benefits brought by combining running and yoga:

- Combining strength and flexibility - although running can add extra pressure on the joints, those who do enjoy it will find that stretching properly helps them go further whilst helping prevent injuries. Through yoga one may enjoy an increased flexibility in all leg muscles and those attached to pelvis.
- Breathing - yoga teaches breath awareness, and breathing properly is a key part of an efficient, pleasurable and healthy run
- Balance - both help develop core strength and postural awareness, hence helping with posture.
- Resistance - the cardiovascular aspect of a run may help build stamina and endurance within a yoga practice.
- Mental focus - yoga helps to be centred, and long distance running requires mental (as well as physical) focus and discipline.
- Stress relief: both have been proven to relieve stress and tensions.

The importance of stretching to runners
The purpose of stretching primarily reflects the most physical side of yoga – the asanas, which are the most obvious and visual aspects of yoga. Stretching affects different muscles in the body and the purpose of yoga is to create strength where you need it and release tension where you don’t.

This physical side of yoga can be applied across disciplines, whether it is running, cycling or even gardening! The difference with yoga however, is that it also works on deeper, subtler levels, and when practised over a sustained amount of time, it may affect the students’ capacity to be still and mentally peaceful.

If yoga is used solely for the purpose of enhancing running performance and stretching out muscles, then stretch before and after exercise, but always when the muscles are warmed up, otherwise this could potentially be counter-productive. There is a risk of injuring unprepared muscles: 'cold' muscular tissues are more prone to being strained.

If however, you are looking at practising yoga as an added discipline (and more as a long term commitment, combined with other aerobic activities for instance) then the sequence proposed here can be practiced anytime, and modified according to how your body feels.



Sequence

This sequence focuses on areas most frequently put under pressure, especially for those fairly new to running. The focus is to simultaneously strengthen and lengthen.

Areas to focus on are the hamstrings, ankles, calves and thighs and to combine lower body strength and flexibility.

This is a general sequence, which can be practiced anytime – if done on its own, then it may be best to begin with a few rounds of sun salutations (of your choice) to warm up the body and avoid any kind of strain. Alternatively, these poses may be held for a longer period of time after running, for deeper stretching.

Try holding warrior 1 for longer, with the variation of having the back foot off the floor, heel pressing out, stretching the quadriceps muscle and breathing into areas of tightness.

This short, 20 minute sequence can easily be extended to 30 minutes or more if the postures are held for a longer period of time.

Warm ups: 5 to 10 rounds of sun salutes. Focus on your breath n the sun salutes – they act as a warm up and will set your breathing pattern throughout the practice.

Standing postures:
Trikonasana/ triangle – opens the hips, hamstrings and chest. Make sure the kneecap is slightly lifted and thigh stays engaged as this protects the knee – by ensuring you’re not just ‘hanging’ out of the knee joint)
Warrior 1 +2 – for lower body strength. Focus on alignment: the heels in line and the knee should stay at a 90 degree angle.
Tree pose – balance, focus and core strength.

Sitting postures:
- Janu Sirsana A – hips and hamstrings opener.
- Pashimottanasana/ Forward Bend – back of legs and back. Try to internally rotate the thighs – this will naturally encourage/remind you to engage the quadriceps and keep the hip, knee and ankle in line.
- Baddha Konasana/ Cobblers pose - hip joints, ankles and inner thighs
- Danurasana / Bridge – back, chest and psoas muscle are opened. Keep the feet parallel, thigh muscles engaged as if you were squeezing a ball. It can be useful to try with a block or blanket to get that feeling of squeezing in. By engaging the quadriceps, this ensures you are not overworking the lower back.

Finish with a shavasana – final relaxation. This pose is equally important as others, for it provides your body with some much needed rest and prepares you mentally for what you have planned next. Making sure your body is rested and calm.

Cautions: Be mindful of knees – running can put strain on the knees, and yoga, when not practiced with safe alignment and care, could potentially increase pressure on the knee joints, rather than alleviate tensions.
Focus on strengthening muscles around knee joint as well as lengthening the back of the legs. So for instance, in trikonasana, instead of ‘hanging out’ in the stretch, make it an active stretch by engaging the thigh muscles and lifting the kneecap up (so no ‘wobbly thighs’) – this ensures the knee remains ‘protected’ and the muscles around that joint are being strengthened rather than overstretched. The same goes in seemingly ‘easy’ or passive postures like Dandasana (staff) pose – always try to remember to slightly lift the kneecaps up and engage the quadriceps.


So why not swap your tree pose for a spot of jogging amongst a tree lined park? You could sign up for a charity run this year or simply dust off your running shoes, jog round your local park and enjoy the sight of some lovely green trees.

Inna Costantini is a yoga teacher based in London and Goa, and also spends some time working for the environmental charity Trees for Cities. Join her for a 5k run around Battersea Park this September and help raise funds for Trees for Cities. Visit www.tree-athlon.org for further information.

Laura Denham Jones is a yoga and running expert. She teaches in London and created the website www.yogaforrunners.co.uk

Ashtanga's 8 Limbs

The 8 limbs of Asthanga and how they work together

The term ‘Asthanga’ literally means ‘8 limbs’ and was devised by the great sage Patanjali: he was the first to coin a systematized approach to yoga through the Yoga Sutras, one of the foundational texts of yoga. According to the Yoga Sutras of Patanjali, yoga is made up of 8 ‘limbs’, or an ordered set of steps, which support each other and work together to guide practioners towards the pathway of Yoga – the divine union of mind, body and soul, leading towards a state of self realization and liberation.

Patanjali describes the 8 limbs as: Yama (abstinences), Niyama (observances), Asana (postures), Pranayama (breath control), Pratyahara (sense withdrawal), Dharana (concentration), Dhyana (meditation), and Samadhi (contemplation). Each of these branches supports each other in a sequential order. For instance, a dedicated Asana practice must be established for proper practice of Pranayama, and is also a key to the development of the Yamas and Niyamas. It is only once the four more superficial limbs are firmly established, that the last four internal limbs may develop – and this will only happen through time and practice.

The graph above can help as a simple aid to remembering the eight limbs of yoga.


Please note that the 8 Limbs of Yoga devised by Patanjali do not equate to Astanga Vinyasa, a practice founded by Sri K Patthabi Jois. Practiced in its correct sequential order, gradually leads the practitioner to rediscover his or her fullest potential on all levels of human consciousness - physical, psychological and spiritual. Through this practice of correct breathing (Ujjayi Pranayama), postures (asanas), and gazing point (dristi), we gain control of the senses and a deep awareness of ourselves. By maintaining this discipline with regularity and devotion, one acquires steadiness of body and mind.

Snake issue...

Close encounter(s) with the slimy kind…

So today (Tuesday), I had a rather unpleasant and slimy encounter with a local resident possibly a black cobra or a Krait (I never saw the head but it was black, small and slimy). Anyhow, I’ve never been alone and so close to a wild snake in my life. Not in India anyway. I am most definitely not a big fan of snakes, especially when they turn up, un-expected, on my feet. I was merely dropping off some errands and shop provisions at Brahmani, and before I know it, a black, thin, slimy creature caresses my right foot! I like caresses, but not un-invited ones. This snake did give me a bit of a fright – so much that I threw the shopping in, slammed the door closed again and stood there for a few moments thanking god (or whoever) to still be alive. I usually give thanks before and after each yoga practice, but this time I was thankful to still be ok and alive – so much so that I checked my foot a few times for bites.
End of the story… the local snake catcher was called in, but being in a very efficient country like India, he was sick, so ‘what to do’…
The snake has probably left the shop by now and the landlords have assured us that if we see the offensive creature again, they will send in their ‘boys’ and beat it to death. Lovely.
Welcome to India ;-)


Here's more info on what I saw: http://wildlifesos.com/rprotect/Big4.htm

Oh and I think it's a Krait - they're deadly but only strike at night! That's reassuring! ;-)

More Goa...

Time issues.....

After a swift, fresh break in the Far East, a shot of cool winter weather, cosy-ing up in newly acquired jeans and jackets, stocking up on modern goods and exotic snacks, enjoying some light healthy food –as opposed to spice infused and heavily fried meals- and throwing in a bit of love, I left the Chinese hotpot behind to warm up, while I made my way back to Goa, reluctantly at first.
As much as I love the freedom India gives you, being a speck of dust amongst a crowd of unknown faces, the relaxing beauty of living near the sea and the indulgence of daily yoga sessions, I also knew the holiday was truly over I was heading back into work mode. Real work. As in less beachtime, less me-time and more 'e-time'. But I do think I have a fairly healthy balance right now. Just enough work, just enough yoga and just enough free time to be, do, see, live. The funny thing about Goa – and most of India- is that no matter how efficient you try to be, you know that its never going to be the same as back home.

Things take time – everything does, from shopping to fixing a dodgy internet connection, to getting the plumber to mend the water pump, to eating, moving around – just every minute aspect of life here is at least 30% slower than in the west. As a matter of fact, visiting Hong Kong straight after India was quite a shock – from constant waiting and slowness to utter stress, speed and impatience: pressing the elevator button ten times in the hope it might come faster is something I found a worryingly usual practice. Surely the elevator doesn’t register the number of clicks of the button, and even if it did, how many seconds would one really have saved? A couple, or perhaps even enough time to check the phone for any missed calls? Glimpses of a hurried lifestyle.

So ‘what to do?’ as the Indians say so well…. Just adapt and work with them– or rather work around them: understanding how Indians think and operate does help.
For instance, I had to help Joanne (the boss) sort out a big cock up at the local printers last week; they had to print out twenty 400 page-long manuals for an upcoming teacher training course. On the very first day of the course, we hear that the last few chapters are missing – and these were key parts of the manual. So there we are at the printers, with over 20kg worth of paper, looking overly angry (you have to sometimes) and requesting that they print out the extra 80 pages and rebind the books by the end of the day –and in time for the next class. Of course, that’s an impossible task says the boss, too much work, not enough staff today, the books can be ready by tomorrow evening….
‘Nononono’
‘They have to be ready tonight so the students can have them in class by the morning’.
‘But I tell you we don’t have enough staff, they won’t be able to do it by then’.
‘But you messed up, we’ve paid you for an unfinished job, it’s your responsibility to sort it. Find extra staff if you have to.’
And so the discussion goes on for another half hour. Joanne’s voice goes up but she never looses her cool. She’s a small lady but if front of a big bellied Indian man, she definitely stood her ground. Even more than that – she successfully haggled the timing down to the next morning; so instead of having to wait 24 hours, we waited for 12. Haggling is everything over here – even time has to be bargained for.
The downside of this is that you actually waste time having to haggle for time! Does that make any sense? Sometimes I wonder why some aspects of Indian life are so inefficient – they may be charming but not to everyone’s taste. I see many westerners getting frustrated by that, which essentially is just as ridiculous: reacting badly is yet another time and energy waster. Phew. What to do? Practicing patience would be a good option perhaps?

So now I’m off to the market town nearby – by bus. More time involved, more waiting on the side of road, not knowing when the next bus will come. It could be round the corner, it could be half an hour away. Once again it’s out of my control, but that, I simply just don’t mind.

More time consuming blog posts to come…..

Yoga in Goa

An article I recently wrote for Yoga Abode:

http://www.yoga-abode.com/travel/yoga_in_goa

Recycling thoughts...

So another phase of life starts again – one of slight uncertainty, both for me and the world, from smaller issues, to larger, more significant ones…. Where will I be next? What paths shall I take in 2009 and how will I affect those around me?

Does this really matter at all at a time when the media is reporting generalised economic meltdown? I hear plastic bottles recycling companies in China are closing down due to the fall in demand for packaging made out of recycled plastic – a third degree effect of the economic crash.
Now that’s more something I should be concerned about – and yet there is little I can do, even more so in Goa, where pollution from rubbish and plastic is rife. Basically, there is no organised system at all: general waste, when not burnt, is dumped at specific spots outside the main towns or on the side of the road for public services to deal with. This, I understand, means a regular gathering and burning of rubbish, to make it disappear in one way or the other, thus making space for yet new bin bags. These dumping grounds make a thoroughly scary sight.

Glass and plastic bottles usually get collected by those who so desperately need a few rupees, which they can easily obtain by going round residential areas to collect empty plastic and glass bottles – an effective way to operate indeed.
As for compostable waste, the cows are usually good takers – so far they've been showing some fondness for common kitchen leftovers: papaya skins, pineapple offcuts and the odd bit of rotten veg. Alternatively, they find a way into our gated compound to nibble on the green plants we lovingly water in an attempt to keep the garden as green and lush as it can be. Personally, I prefer feeding them papaya skins....

So I'm a little speck in the wider universe, littered by garbage and waste – if each little speck keeps producing so much of it, we will soon be one big speck wasting away.
If I can make my own personal life and actions a little lighter and shinier, this would be a wonderful achievement already. So whatever happens this year (for me, friends and others), will be nothing else but beautiful. Sheer shining little specks of dust. :-)

Christmas etc...

Alternative night markets, fashion and style.

Since arriving in Goa’s hippy hotspot, Anjuna, I have been everyday amazed by the ever changing trends, hangout places and people. The usual crowd gathers in the ‘usual’ places (ie. Ingo’s night market, Wednesday flea market followed by sunset at Shore bar, Ashvem beach on a Sunday and Anjuna on the other days), whilst the hardcore party goers have slowly migrated up north, towards Arambol. Anjuna’s now a little haven of residential, civilised living, with English language kindergartens, classy restaurants and yoga centres. There’s a proper village feel to the place. And even though the Wednesday flea market still attracts crowds from nearby resorts, car loads of tourists and keen shoppers, the whole area has definitely mellowed down over the last few months. The recent Mumbai events haven’t helped either. Now the Saturday night market has been canceled until further notice and there’s been a worrying atmosphere lately – both for businesses and on a social level.

So Xmas in Goa has been a bit of a let down for some. No parties, few decent dancefloors, and no one really knew what was happening each day. Is Hilltop open or not? What about Curlies? Even Atit, the local social diary organiser (who runs ‘good morning goa’ – a daily text messaging service which updates subscribers with parties, events etc) didn't quite know what had been allowed or banned, what parties were on or off. On Xmas day, the seasonal crowds were anxiously waiting for text updates of what was going on, but it all seemed very vague...

There’s a lot of uncertainty – socially anyway, which has been a bit unnerving and unsettling for some. It seems so hard to plan anything these days. Things keep changing. But this, I consider to be really quite positive in the end – don’t make plans, just go with the flow and be. Happy yogic Christmas!

And following from a Christmassy ‘nothing-ness’, New Year proved to quite the opposite. Choice and more choice. Parties and more parties. Mayhem on the beach, chaos on the roads and loud music everywhere. Just like back home really!

Happy 2009!!!

Goa - episode 2

Day 1-2
So here’s a first day of my winter in the sunshine…. Being in a place where I have the luxury of space, time and freedom. Freedom to follow whatever path I choose, time to let go and wholly absorb another culture, lifestyle and yoga, and finally the luxury of being able to do all this, in my own time. It does still feel extremely surreal – not just being here, sat in a lovely little cottage surrounded by durian trees, palms and other exotic plants, as well as a disused skate park now home to frogs, monkeys and cows, but that’s another story.

So it’s surreal to be back in Goa, Anjuna, Brahmani Yoga, rolling my mat out next to familiar faces and knowing most of the people from either London or Goa. It’s a strange little world, which keeps changing and yet stays bizarrely similar year after year. The difference for me, returning here this season, is that I’m no longer a teacher trainee, I no longer have the stress of writing essays or showing up at 7 am everyday – I still do, simply because I love early mornings and the quiet, fresh cycle into the yoga shala. The dogs have been an issue at dawn though – I’m sure they recognise new faces cause they really barked and growled this morning. They usually sleep daytime and howl at night, so by morning they get pretty hungry and aggressive. Plus they smell fresh blood. That’s my view anyway.

So I’m back in Anjuna for the season – the ‘season’ meaning 5/6 months- and my days will be divided between yoga practice, assisting in classes and doing some PA/PR work for the centre. I reckon that’s enough to keep me busy and yet not too much to stress me out. A fairly good balance for now. I hope.

The fact that I’m writing all this does show that I’m on a fairly productive, ‘London’ mode, and that I still feel the need to report back to others. Reporting is good though – especially as it’s taken me over 24 hours to switch my laptop on, and I haven’t been online for much time either! People say it takes at least a week to totally switch off, so I’m doing fairly well after a day.

So I’m on day 2 and I have my house nearly decked out, with some help from my fussy, german, ex-fashion designer neighbour, my local phone’s just about working, and I’ve already managed to borrow a bike. It’s nice being away, I’m still buzzing from the excitement and the overwhelming number of friendly faces around. But whether life really is better in Goa is something that I’ll soon find out….

moon days - again

Moon days



Most yoga practitioners these days seem to be familiar with the need to avoid doing yoga on full or new moon days. This ritual habit of avoiding so called "moon days" derives from Pattabi Jois’ Ashtanga Yoga system, which states that the body may be exposed to increased risks of injury at either extremes of the lunar cycle.

On a personal level, I’ve always been somewhat sceptical on the effects of the moon cycle on people’s health and wellbeing – perhaps as a resistance to my mother’s continuing belief that our moods and feelings are deeply affected by the lunar cycle. When growing up, I was told that a dark moon would equate to low energy levels, grumpiness, whilst a full moon led to high energy levels – and frequently arguments with my father - the moon would justify any changes in my father’s attitude, and hers to some extent. So when it came to yoga, especially when I started practicing Asthanga, I was initially wary about any ‘moon day’ theory.

However, after some research – and much practice- I soon noticed some variations in my body on particular days. The theory is that because the body is made of 70% water, it is affected in the same way by the moon as oceans and tides. In fact, the lunar cycle is determined by the moon’s relative position to the sun. Full moons occur when they are in opposition and new moons when they are in conjunction, and both sun and moon exercise a gravitational pull on the earth.

Tim Miller, a long term Asthangi and the first American certified to teach by Pattabhi Jois, very accurately points out in his reserach on moon days:
“The full moon energy corresponds to the end of inhalation when the force of prana is greatest. This is an expansive, upward moving force that makes us feel energetic and emotional, but not well grounded. The Upanishads state that the main prana lives in the head. During the full moon we tend to be more headstrong. The new moon energy corresponds to the end of exhalation when the force of apana is greatest. Apana is a contracting, downward moving force that makes us feel calm and grounded, but dense and disinclined towards physical exertion.”

So ultimately, according to this theory, the best time to practice would be in the middle of the lunar cycle, when prana is more balanced.

According to the Asthanga Yoga system, one should not practice on those days, as the body is more vulnerable to injury -either through tiredness/lack of energy or too much of it and a risk of over exertion . Traditionally it was also a way to give oneself a rest – Asthanga being a strong, physically demanding practice.
In other forms of Yoga, moon days are not always respected but usually acknowledged as times of fluctuating energy, unsettled moods and hence not ideal for strong physical practices.

I have often been surprised by the lack of knowledge people have on moon days. Even though I’m hardly experienced myself, I believe that being committed to a sound practice should lead to a deeper understanding and listening of one’s body. Recently, I woke up on a morning following a dark moon feeling lethargic, slow, scattered and unmotivated. At the same time I respect that my body needs this day of rest, slowness and ease. Moon days can be seen as honouring nature, and thereby one’s relationship with the surrounding word.

And the same goes for growing vegetables or planting trees – biodynamic farmers respect the moon cycles, while most serious gardeners will acknowledge that the moon does have some effect on the ways plants grow.

So without being utterly superstitious or a new age hippy, I would recommend everyone reads up on moon days and observe the effects – and you might even surprise yourself!



Forthcoming moon days:


Friday 18th July

Friday 1st August
Saturday 16th August
Saturday 30th August

Monday 15th September
Monday 29th September

Tuesday 14th October
Tuesday 28th October

Wednesday 12th November
Thursday 27th November

Friday 12th December
Saturday 27thDecember

For further information: http://www.ashtangayogacenter.com/index.html

Moon days

Moon days... They're a big thing in Asthanga Yoga and people have always asked me why are you not meant to practice on moon days? And exactly what does it mean? And I have always mumbled an answer along the lines of 'it's a time of the month when energy levels are either high or low, which could interfere with your practice and very often your body will be more sensitive, and practicing yoga at that time could hence cause injuries'. Well I know that's not an accurate answer at all, but I've found it hard to describe exactly why and what they are. Here's my easy answer- Tim Miller's website, with a nice list of the upcoming moon days for the year:
http://www.ashtangayogacenter.com/moon.html

Final days

Final days, ups and downs, rain and sunshine

An auspicious combination of a full moon, the start of a week long celebration of Holi, Easter and the first storm of the season, provided a beautiful backdrop for the final days on the course. A liberating thunderstorm cleared away the tearful air and brought some much needed coolness to what had been the hottest week so far. A few more degrees and all of us would have been dropping like flies. The last few classes were already lacking energy and enthusiasm, minds had already left the classroom and drifted to other locations beyond the Shala and far away from Goa. Tears and emotions had already started pouring out as the grand finale of the course neared even closer. It's funny how intense and close knit retreats like these bring out deep seated emotions out of most people.

And I can't believe that's already it – 320 hours of intensive learning, training and practicing are over. It's been such an intense, fascinating, full-on few weeks, months, and now I'm done, I'm officially a yoga teacher –or am I? Right now, I simply own the certificate – a worthy one indeed- but these last 2 months haven't quite sunk in yet. The closing ceremony was a beautiful one – and we celebrated in a hybrid Indo-western way – a last group Pranayama practice, followed by breakfast and a philosophy class to round up our thoughts and knowledge on yoga. After handing us the certificates, we thanked our teachers with gifts and cards – in a very loosely themed Indian fashion.

So what next? Where is everyone off to? Will we all be teaching, assisting, or setting off for yet more learning? Right now, half my classmates are probably roasting on the beach (hours in the classroom doesn't exactly do much for the tan) an the other half have left or are on their way out.... It's somewhat sad to see people leave after such an intense, close time together and yet I feel many of us have made a bond, a mini network of like-minded people, who may very well become lifelong friends, who knows? Only time will tell what everyone will make of yoga in a few years' time.

As for me, I'm not baking on the beach, nor packing up to leave, but simply enjoying some time off from early morning sessions, homework and tight schedules. I've decided to spend a few weeks in the area to enjoy Goa at its quietest, work a few shifts in the shop (in exchange for free classes and some extra socialising), do a bit of admin work for the Yoga centre (not quite karma yoga, but when I can give something back, I love doing it), whilst also keeping up my practice and most importantly have a holiday!

Week 5 and 6

Teaching Panic

Days are getting hotter, study hours longer and the classes just get harder. After a few weeks of fairly 'passive' studying, listening, reading, sitting in lectures, trying to get a grasp on different aspects of yoga anatomy, philosophy and technique, we're now shifting towards a more dynamic and challenging part -the actual teaching. Because that's what this course is all about. Learning theory is fascinating (and there's so much more I want to learn), but it wouldn't really make much sense without practice.

Most students have already set their foundations in their own daily yoga practice, style and approach, and I can see that everyone views an feels yoga in a different way and will end up teaching it (if at all) in a distinct, individual manner. But for most of us teacher trainees, standing up in front o a class, talking through postures, explaining the movement, the breath, the flow, the technique, in a concise, clear and pleasant manner is no easy feat. Just when I was starting to get comfortable with my adjustments technique, happily 'squishing' fellow students and people from the drop in centre, into paschimottanasana, down dog and most of the key postures, newer, bigger challenges are being thrown my way. Teaching is daunting for most of us -more for some than for others- and also involves being confident in one's own practice. However, being thrown to the front of a class, having all eyes looking towards you waiting for instructions, also feels somewhat empowering. For someone like me who's never taught any form of class before, it could be much worse. My fears of mumbling, being confused and unclear weren't justified, and I found myself projecting my voice to the back of the shala quite well (though with a conscious effort) and it did all make sense in the end!
Mind over matter. It can be stressful, daunting, but also so much fun when it goes well. All along, I never thought about the practical side of teaching and how stressful it might be for everyone. I was apprehensive about the 5 am wake up calls (which I turned out to quite enjoy), the daily hour long pranayama sessions, anatomy and philosophy lectures, the physical strain of the daily exercise and yoga practice, but I seem to have sailed through most of this, and the part I was the least concerned about – teaching technique- is by far the hardest. That's also where lies the success of a great teacher- make your students feel at ease, relaxed, and yet be safe when adjusting them an teaching postures.Know the meaning of yoga. Keep up a firm personal practice and keep on learning. But mot importantly, create an environment which feels unique and special for class. No 2 teachers follow the same style, energy or routine, and each teacher will offer something unique to students -whether it's great adjustments, a relaxing practice, a soft, kind, gentle approach, a soothing voice, a fun dynamic class, a strict methodical approach, here's a style out there for everyone. And hopefully I'll soon find mine....

Nearly half way through!

Weeks 3 & 4 – keeping the energy going....

It's week 4 already and most students' energy levels are sinking. I've seen tears, sulking, snapping, some weirdnesss and near breakdowns, but all in all, most people are in pretty good form. Hard times are inevitable on an intense course like this and you have to expect some strange behaviour.

With the challenges of the first few weeks behind me, I am keeping -more or less- sane and I think I'm ready to face new ones. I am now happily bouncing out of bed for the early morning wake up calls. So far, we have three 6 am pranayama sessions and three 7 am starts each week. This means my alarm is set for either 5 or 6 am most days. It's much easier than expected and I'm even starting to enjoy getting up at the crack of dawn, when the rest of Goa is still asleep – even the dogs seem to have their moment of rest and lay off the howling for a couple of hours before sunrise. After a shot of bee pollen and my dose of spirulina and chaiwanprash (my new ayurvedic superfood), I spring out of the room, ready to face another day of yoga practice and lessons.
I'm also now the proud owner (albeit temporarily) of a vintage 1950s Raleigh bicycle, which I've been pedaling around town and to class. Its a great way to get around flat-as-a-pancake Anjuna, but the hills of Parra, the nearby village where most of my classes are now shifting, aren't an easy ride. I struggle uphill and try to hop on classmates' scooters when I can. However, early morning starts bring me to discover a brand new world: the bicycle milk wallah, sleepy roadside dogs and homeless people emerging from the gutter. It also highlights Goa from a whole different perspective and puts me in a positive mood to start the day – most days.

So I've overcome my fears of getting up at 5 and having to sleep so early (with no tv or internet to distract me, early nights aren't that hard). The food is far better than I could have hoped - we're spoilt for choice here: I now have the options of healthy salad/tofu/soup joints, indian veg (with a few Tibetan momos thrown in), market snacks, supermarket shopping or market stalls for fresh fruit and veg, which could potentially be prepared the ayurvedic way (new cookbook allowing). So far, I've only explored options 1-3 and I'm amazed by the variety. But with all the morning practices, it's been mostly a 2 meal a day affair so far – brunch an early dinner – with lots of fruits/snacks/chai thrown in between. It's a fairly healthy lifestyle I reckon.
So week 3 started in a dynamic, upbeat fashion. Physically, I'm feeling energized, my flexibility has improved and my understanding of yoga as a whole is increasing. This could be the first few steps in a long journey of learning. The anatomy classes are fascinating- there's only so much you can cover in 9 hours a week, but knowing how the body works, from organs to the bones, muscles and systems, really does make a huge difference. Getting in and out of postures, knowing how it affects structure, alignment etc is a technique in itself and is just as important as the posture itself. Anatomy is such a wide subject but even the most basic bits of knowledge I've piked up from the classes feel so valuable. I need to keep reading, learning and putting all this into practice. It may seem obvious to many, but the spine is essentially the 'brain' of the body – yet we constantly forget to look after it: hence the importance of good posture, avoiding unnecessary pressure, tension and brutal movements, especially on the lower parts of the spine (lumbar and sacrum) as they are the least mobile parts of the back. Anatomy is also a key part of the adjustments process – or 'how to give good adjustments without putting pressure on the wrong area and sending students into the A&E'!

Finding time to write and reflect on the course isn't easy either, but as the weeks fly past, keeping an online record of all this really does feel therapeutic – it's a technology filled, materialistic escape from the spiritual and mental world of yoga!

Road Rage....

Or the incessant honking and beeping....

I've been on my Indian bike for just over a week now and I am fully feeling the road rage.
Walking around isn't easy either, you're just at the bottom end of the road chain – it goes this way: cows, trucks, buses, vans, cars, auto-rickshaws, motorbikes/scooters, push bikes, pedestrians and the gutter. I wish I could be a cow. Lie on a road all day and watch the crazy world going by me. Being worshiped, respected, occasionally fed or moved. Life's not bad in India for cow.

Being on a bike does, however lead you to see the countryside from a different angle. Yes, it does get hot and sticky during the day, you can't really go too far (and steep hills are out of bounds, especially if you're riding a vintage single speed like me) and you do get the the odd stares (and dirty beeps) from stunned locals. Cycling in India is the poor man's mode of transport. Old men, stick thin sun scorched workers and schoolchildren are the only real bike users around here. Anything else is just deemed odd – why would anyone in their right mind and with enough money consider any form of strenuous exercise when buses, cars and mopeds are easy ways around? Physical activity is certainly one of those cultural divides India and many other countries have with the western world. For me, cycling is a wonderful way to get around, no matter which country I am in. It brings you one notch closer to the surrounding world, in a similar way to walking but in a more efficient, faster manner. You wouldn't cover huge distances on Indian roads, but a bicycle is definitely a great way to get around -and it's possibly safer than a moped.
So what's crazy about Indian roads? Everything. So far I've been attacked by dogs (they're harmless but do give you a fright), beeped at constantly by car/bus/lorry/scooter drivers (that's the rule around here – make yourself heard: 'watch out I am here, beep beep'), I've been shouted at, stared at (not much difference from London then) and jeered at by silly school kids. Oh and did I mention the snotty glare from a cow or two on the way? They rule the roads so why not. They're allowed to sit on their fat bums and cause traffic chaos.

I hope I can keep the cycling up in the next few weeks – most of my classes are moving to a more remote retreat up a long hill, so time will tell whether I'll be able to face the climb each morning at 5.30 am!

Week 2 Reminders

Key reminders for week 2:

• Look after your back: the spine is so delicate and holds the key to a healthy body.

• Learn about your body type: without necessarily having to follow Ayurvedic principles, one should try to understand how their body works. What and how we eat affects our health, and this varies according to each individuals' bodily structure, personality and age.

• Eat well: following the above, food maintains us alive, so keeping our body healthy means eating according to one's body type (constitution), regularly, lightly, and calmly.

• Breathe (again) : one reminder I'll need to include each week!

Week 2

week2 – soaking it all in...

Second week on the course and I feel I'm only just starting to get into the swing of things and easing into a different rhythm and pace. Now I understand why we were asked to arrive at least a few days – if not a week- early. It takes the system time to adjust to the environment, food, time change, weather and local lifestyle, especially when coming from a busy city like London. I consider myself fairly flexible -or more appropriately, adaptable- and having traveled in Asia before, India didn't come across as much of a culture shock. Having said that, Goa is hardly a fair representation of India – with hoards of backpackers and package tourists, it's more of an Asian Ibiza.
Luckily tucked away a few kilometres from the beach, in a peaceful garden (peaceful for Indian standards, if you remove the background car horns, animal howls and occasional drilling), the Brahmani Yoga centre, where most of my classes are being taught during the first few weeks, is a fairly idyllic pace to study.

The one other aspect I have found truly fascinating so far, apart from each person's individual practice, is the unique path everyone has chosen. Needless to say, each of the other 12 students come from various backgrounds (from both a cultural and yoga perspective), but each person also appears to have quite different expectations of the course – why they chose to enroll, what they hope to get out of it, what they plan to do next etc. Some have very clear paths and the near future (ie. post course) all mapped out. Others (like me) are willing to let go and take things each step at a time, not quite knowing what my happen next. I haven't even started thinking about what I might do after the training – apart from keeping up my practice of course, whilst hopefully assisting and eventually teaching. I don't want to think about it too much either – the whole point for me is to take a step back from my unnecessarily busy life and focus on something completely different, and which I am passionately committed to. Where it will lead me, who knows. The outcome can only be a positive one – unless I get struck with the inevitable Delhi belly syndrome! I wouldn't go as far as saying it'll be life changing but let's hope I do take this all in and experience life in a new, eye-opening way.