Taiwan's yoga scene

Taiwan’s yoga scene

Yoga is ‘big’ in the east – so popular in fact, that I’ve decided to investigate and find out what the fuss is all about…

Perhaps you are wondering why Taiwan? Surely it’s not one of the biggest tourist destinations of East Asia? Squeezed between Mainland China and Japan, the island’s cultural influences reflect this geographic position and a mix of both the modern and more traditional worlds. Taiwan is a rather small island but nevertheless attracts a notable amount of foreigners, expatriates, businessmen, tourists from all over the world, and as a result the cultural scene is diverse and vibrant. The capital, Taipei, is an exciting, colourful and incredibly lively place to be, and the fact that yoga has experienced a huge boom over the last few years reflects a general trend in modern East Asian cities – following suit from Shanghai, Hong Kong and Singapore. In terms of the ‘yoga scene’, these cities all seem to be on a similar level: sleek, modern and somewhat corporate looking studios, make up the core of what yoga has to offer.

Taipei’s yoga village…

So Yoga’s big in the Far East. So big that plush, modern studios have been popping up all over cities like Taipei. Shanghai has Y+ (amongst others of course), Singapore and Hong Kong have Pure and Taiwan has just as many. Yoga is only just a fairly recent trend in the oriental world but has really kicked off in big modern cities, in the same way as gyms, fitness studios and health spas became trendy in the West throughout the 80s and 90s. Most people in Taiwan are very aware of yoga, and the health benefits it offers. Perhaps it is part of the Chinese mentality to be so conscious about health and they enthusiastically follow new trends in a very efficient manner: as soon as yoga began to kick off in Taiwan, TV channels suddenly offered an array of (poorly presented) yoga fitness programmes, sport shops started stocking up on the latest Prana yoga wear, mats, props and everything a ‘serious’ yogi would need to practice.

Yoga has been in Taiwan for a number of years, but it is only after Space launched a few years ago that things took a whole new dimension. Pure, a more fitness oriented studio – owned by an American Chinese pop singer, Coco Lee- followed suit around the same time.

Space and Pure Yoga are two of the leading modern yoga studios in Taipei and also have branches in other Eastern metropoles. Following the latest American fashion, they offer a huge range of classes from Vinyasa Flow to Hatha, ‘Hot’, Mysore style and meditation. It is mostly about Yoga Lifestyle – luxury, top end yoga for high earners and trendy health aware Metropolitans.

However, Space also hosts regular workshops from some of the world’s leading teachers – Richard Freeman is a regular and Sarah Powers will be leading an intensive workshop at the end of November 2009. Space Yoga definitely has the space, the view (panoramic mountain landscape, yet set in the midst of the cool East district), the upmarket, clean studios, shiny bathrooms. It offers the whole ‘package’ – a beautifully peaceful zen lifestyle that anyone who practices yoga should dream of – in theory at least. It’s undeniable that the centre is incredibly designed, stylish, calm and comfortable: two changing rooms, 26 luxurious spa showers, fresh high tech towels, 10 fully equipped practice rooms, which are cleaned after each session (an army of cleaners awaits at the end of each session, ready to dust off each speck of sweat and dirt, ensuring the studio is impeccably clean for a fresh batch of students), a shop offering the latest lulu lemon gear, yoga mats and books, plus an array of staff to inform you, direct you, book you in for the next class and of course charge you for the privilege of being there. As their website interestingly states – “SPACE offers the convenience of a gym, and the comfort of a spa, but focuses on being singularly devoted to the practice and enjoyment of yoga.” Personally, I find this a little confusing.

Of course, access to all this beauty and well being doesn’t come cheap. As I was taken through a detailed tour of the centre by a lovely English speaking sales lady (and of course also a yoga devotee), I soon found out the real cost of being part of this lifestyle. Drop in classes are a whopping 900 Taiwan Dollars (about 20 GBP), but most students here are on more affordable yearly membership packages – proper gym style.

I find these types of studios a little daunting, and although the experience is pleasurable, visually appealing, this is not what yoga means to me. So I took a short walk down the road to explore some other options.
Less than 5 minutes away, in the still stylish and expensive Dongxia Fuxing district, is John’s Yoga Living’, an independent yoga centre, which offers perhaps a fraction of the classes from other upmarket studios, but in a much warmer, relaxed and friendlier space. It’s nevertheless very clean, smart and stylish, but the size (2 medium yoga rooms) makes it far less daunting and far more homely.
They also run nutrition and Ayurvedic cooking workshops and have a homely kitchen offering simple and yet delicious breakfasts and lunches. The owner, John, has studied Ayurveda and Yoga in India, and his friendly, down to earth manner, gives the place a good vibe – not often are owners that approachable.
The other great thing in comparison with the other main studios in Taipei is that Yoga Living does not go with the whole gym membership style passes. Classes are reasonably priced at about 10 pounds and become cheaper if you buy tickets by bulk (which can also be shared with friends – a great way to share the yogic love).
They teach far fewer classes than their larger ‘rivals’, but focus on simple, straight forward yoga styles – Astanga, Hatha, Meditation, Flow and Yin. The approach is uncomplicated and honest- or at least less image oriented. www.johnsyogaliving.com

Other Schools

But although all these studios follow a similar pattern of being a ‘western’ import of some kind (all the owners for instance, are not Taiwanese ‘natives’), there is nevertheless another side of yoga in Taiwan, which is far more home-grown. One of the largest studios of this kind is CSJ Yoga, founded in 1976. It’s so local in fact that they haven’t even bothered to translate their website in English! They offer Yoga Alliance registered teacher training courses as well as a wide variety of classes in studios all over the island. http://www.csjyoga.com.tw/index.php

Chun Lee, a Taiwanese yoga practitioner, notes: “ Taiwan also has a number of esoteric, self taught yogis too. One older teacher for instance, has followed his own path for years and practices his own style of fairly ‘hardcore’ looking yoga in a remote temple. Here’s him in action: http://ishare.rediff.com/video/Health-&-Fitness/Taiwan-Yoga/108063”
“This just shows that it’s only the recent import of yoga in Taiwan that is modelled according to Western styles. Like everywhere else, trends are inevitable, but the seed has always been here.”

Future of yoga in Taiwan – just another fad or there to stay?

Yoga as a fashion is by no means a bad thing – trends often settle down and seep into cultures and psyches in the most unexpected ways, creating foundations for other developments- but it does show to what extent the Chinese world just loves anything fashionable, ‘western’ and healthy. It’s all about the experience, style and external appearance – in most places anyway. Chinese friends have often warned me of an innate mentality of fast-track health and fitness – it’s something they are proud of – do little and get great results. So if yoga doesn’t achieve those results efficiently enough, then what next?